Day 0: Friday 18 July - Kirkby Stephen

We all eventually arrived at Kirkby Stephen during the evening, after some very heavy traffic on the M6. Fortunately for the rest of us, Nev and Ed travelled ahead and pitched the tent at the Pennine View campsite. We adjourned to the local pub (The Croglin Castle Hotel) for a few appropriate pints of Wainwright bitter with everyone a little uneasy, not really knowing what they'd let themselves in for. Nev and Ed had done a good job with the tent, just as well because we were all woken by heavy rain showers during the night, which did nothing for that sense of unease!

Day 1: Saturday 19 July - St Bees to Grasmere

We all woke very early, it must have been the excitment! Thanks to Ed, we had a spot of breakfast and then gradually organised our kit into bags and wandered over to meet the Packhorse (http://www.cumbria.com/packhorse/) minibus with our bikes. The minibus was soon loaded and by 8:30 were on our way to the start at St Bees. The weather was dreadful, and we were all very quiet - what were we doing? After an hour an three quarters, we arrived at St Bees and flagged down a passer by to take the obligatory photos on the beach.

The team - Nev, Ed, Hedd, Matt, Stu and Ad

It was absolutely freezing, and we took shelter in the local cafe/shop, picking up a few last minute supplies. We were away by 10:30, heading along roads and a disused railway line to Cleator Moor. A quick stop for some Greggs sausage rolls for lunch and we headed on into the Ennerdale valley. Our Packhorse driver had recommended a route change, avoiding the boggy Floutern tarn bridleay over to Buttermere, and instead staying in the valley up to the remote Black Sail youth hostel and crossing using the Scarth Gap Pass. This climb was very steep and involved a bit of carrying, but we were all pretty fresh and we handled it without too much trouble.

Nev and Ed carrying up Scarth Gap Pass

That said, we were all pretty happy to reach the top. The descent started out ridable, but soon became very difficult. Ed and Ad managed to do the most riding, although their lines often took them way off course with stopping in the wet a real challenge. From halfway down, it became much easier, with some fantastic technical rocky sections for us all to get our teeth into. A few of us took tumbles here, including Hedd and Stu, but we all agreed it was great fun when we arrived at the bottom to repair the first puncture of the ride.

Hedd on the Scarth Gap Pass descent

Our next challenge was a road climb on the Honister Pass, which was tough but doable. We stopped for some tea and panini at the Slate Mine Museum Cafe at the top. It was 3pm and an early finish was on the cards. We descended quickly on road and headed for Stonethwaite and the start of the final pass of the day - Greenup Edge. We'd all read some pretty daunting reports about Greenup Edge, but how hard could it be? ....errrr ....very hard!

After a couple of puntures we got started. The climb was brutal. We pushed/carried for about two hours, focussing on the rocky outcrop of Lining Crag ahead.

The Greeup Edge climb with Lining Crag on the horizon

Some walkers struck up a conversation with the line "Why?" - we explained our mission and they kindly donated £5 to Cancer Research UK! We were hoping that our trail passed to the right of Lining Crag, but unfortunately it went to the left, up a really steep rocky climb that was flowing with water in the rain. Stu struggled with this due to vertigo, and wasn't helped by leaving his rucksack at the bottom and having to go back for it. Eventually we all made it to the top, expecting the summit and a nice easy descent to the Grasmere youth hostel.

Stu on Greenup Edge.... But where is his rucksack?

Unfortunaltely, what followed was another hour of traipsing through knee deep bogs on the summit plateau, followed by a descent that was largely unridable. We managed to ride some sections, but this was scant reward for all the effort we'd put into the climb.

Matt takes a tumble on the Greenup Edge descent

We eventually arrived at the Thorney How youth hostel in Grasmere at 7:30pm. The drying room was just what we needed, and after a quick shower we strolled into Grasmere for a bite to eat, making the pub's 9pm food order deadline by seconds!

Matt at the Grasmere youth hostel

Day 2: Sunday 20 July - Grasmere to Kirkby Stephen

Thanks to the youth hostel breakfast, we managed to get our bikes and be away by 8:15. We freewheeled down into Grasmere, before the tarmac climb up to the top of Loughrigg terrace. The sun was shining and we all really enjoyed this descent. It's usually very busy with walkers, but our early start was paying dividends as we enjoyed a clear run.

Matt on Loughrigg terrace

We rolled into Ambleside and headed for Biketreks (http://www.biketreks.net/), Hedd and Ad needed to replace rear disc brake rotors damaged during day 1's hike-a-bike. When we described our day 1 route, the Biketreks boys were pretty scathing about Greenup Edge (the descent from Langdale combe is much more ridable apparently - one for next time!).

After a brief delay to buy some lunch we were on our way again, climbing Jenkin Crag with great views over Windermere.

The start of the Jenkin Crag climb

Our progress was slowed by Matt taking another tumble into a stream (much to the amusement of some passing walkers). This route is definately better in the opposite direction, but we all enjoyed a fast drop into Troutbeck all the same.

Our climb up the Garburn Pass started on tarmac, but soon we were racing along the track past Dubbs reservoir. We went through a gate and the proper climb started, with some really challenging steep and rocky sections and great views over the Troutbeck valley and back to Windermere.

Ed climbing up to the Garburn Pass

Matt, Ed, Hedd & Ad at the top of the Garburn Pass

The Garburn Pass descent into Kentmere was a real highlight, rocky and fast with a few short technical sections to keep us on our toes. We stopped at the bottom to eat some lunch and swap our 'near miss' stories from the descent.

Lunch at the bottom of the Garburn Pass

Kentmere was really busy as there seemed to be a fell running event being based there. We weaved between competitors and spectators and left them all behind for the climb on tarmac and then tracks over Stile end. We were at the top in no time and really enjoyed the descent to Sadgill. It was another fast one, with just a short technical section. The sun was shining and this was turning into a very good day!

Ed on the descent to Sadgill

Coast to coast purists would head North from Sadgill and make their way towards Shap, but really boggy conditions meant that we were heading South to Murthwaite for some grassy climbs and descents which took us to the A6. We headed North, passed by some very fast motorbikers taking the corners horizontally, and after a pretty painful climb we dropped down into Borrowdale and left the tarmac behind.

The team head into Borrowdale

As we followed the river downstream we had some navigational issues. The bridleway shown on the left bank on the map just couldn't be found. We forded the river and took the easy track on the right bank instead.

Hedd wasting no time with the ford in Borrowdale

Stu and Ad (team Orange) re-cross the stream in Borrowdale

All was going well until the climb over Roundthwaite Common. We could see it winding away to our left but were just hoping it wasn't our route. We were already pretty tired and all found it really tough.

Ed on the tough climb out of Borrowdale

As we reached the top and took in the view, we all agreed we had never been so pleased to see the M6. This landmark meant that the Lake District was behind us, but we still had a fair bit of distance to cover before we reached our campsite in Kirkby Stephen.

Matt at the bottom of the Roundthwaite Common descent

We decided on a pub stop in Tebay (The Cross Keys Inn) to refill water bottles and fuel up on drinks and crisps. By now it was 5pm and we had another 15miles to cover, approximately 50:50 onroad:offroad.

The pub stop in Tebay

The onroad part seemed to pass in no time and we all got together and made our way onto the bridlepaths that headed for Smardale Fell. With a shout of "Come on lads, just one more climb!", we fought our way up the mainly rideable trails towards the Fell. We reached false summit after false summit until, just as we were starting to believe this would go on forever, we reached the summit and started heading downwards on a fun, grassy track.

Matt climbing Smardale Fell

After a few miles on the road, we cycled through the centre of Kirkby Stephen to reach the Pennine View campsite at 6:30pm. We were relieved to have made it and were begining to belive that the worst was now behind us.

We showered and made our way back to the Croglin Castle Hotel for more fuel!

Day 3: Monday 21 July - Kirkby Stephen to Richmond

After a long day 2, we gave ourselves a bit of a lie in and left the alarm until 7am. We got some breakfast and organised our bags for Packhorse. We were ready to ride at about 9am.

Ready to leave the Kirkby Stephen campsite on Day 3

Thankfully, the first six miles were on road, passing through the villages of Winton and Rookby, which allowed us to knock-off some easy miles and warm up before the proper stuff!

Heading off-road for the first time on day 3

Our obvious track soon ran out and we found ourselves trying to pick the dryest route possible over some boggy ground at the bottom of a wide valley.

Nev always confident (?) as he crosses a stream

After some traipsing, the trail headed upwards and we began the big climb up to the road. We were again indebted to our friends at Packhorse for some route advice as we follwed a trail along a wall to avoid the worst of the boggy ground.

Matt and Nev climb to the road

After a few undulations on the road we reached our next target, the highest pub in GB, the Tan Hill Inn. This is a great pub and the staff were very helpful, making up some sandwiches even though we arrived 40mins before the start of their lunchtime!

The team at the Tan Hill Inn

The pub also had some very interesting regulars, including a sheep that was determined to get inside.

Nev talks about the problems with having a massive left ear with a fellow sufferer

From the Tan Hill Inn, we headed over Arkengarthdale Moor and navigation became tricky. The main problem was that we couldn't believe we were on the right track because it was such heavy going! We gained confidence and headed further and further from civilisation, the only reminder was a view of the A66 in the distance. The trail over the moor seemed to go on forever, but in the end it led to a fantastic, fast descent.

Ad, Hedd and Stu head over Arkengarthdale Moor

After a little distance on the road, we found another pub (The CB Inn, Arkengarthdale) and had another break. Time was passing and unfortunately, Stu left it until we needed to get going before checking his bike for punctures.... Whoops!

Stu and his puncture at the CB Inn

All these pub stops meant that our next bit of offroading, over Booze Moor, was particularly appropriate! It started with a steep climb on tarmac before progressing to a moorland track. Navigation was difficult as once again we were struggling to find paths that were clearly marked on the map.

Eventually we found a good trail and made fast progress on a double track descent. After some more tarmac around Washfold we found a great grassy descent over Skelton Moor and dropped into Marske.

Matt on the descent into Marske

From here it was onroad all the way into Richmond. It was about 7pm so to save some time we found a chippy and ate there, before heading off again for the last couple of miles out to the Brompton On Swale Caravan Park. This was a great site and we got a great pitch right next to the River Swale.

A fellow camper takes pity on Ed and pumps up the airbed with their car powered pump!

Day 4: Tueday 22 July - Richmond to Lion Inn, Blakey Howe

When we awoke on day 4, we all agreed that the sound of the nearby river had helped us get one of our better nights sleep under canvas. We packed the tent away, got some breakfast and were away at about 9am, following some faffing from Hedd who lost and found the backup map a number 0f times.

(Nearly) ready to go on Day 4

The day started with a long road section. This section across the Vale of York was always going to be the dullest from a riding perspective, but at least it passed quickly.

Matt and Ed get a tow from Ad on the initial road section

Although we were making good progress, we were also feeling a bit peckish so we had a quick pitstop in Brompton.

Fueling up in Brompton

From Brompton, we headed along the busy A684 towards Osmotherley. We had another break and enjoyed looking around this picturesque small town.

The beautiful small town of Osmotherley

Soon after Osmotherley we headed offroad for the first time and enjoyed the descent from Scarth Wood Moor, although Hedd lost his water bottle.

Nev tackles the first offroad descent of the day on Scarth Wood Moor
Hedd at the bottom of the Scarth Wood Moor descent, without his water bottle!

From here, we followed the Cleveland Way for a while and stopped for yet more food. After another onroad section we passed Scuddale Hall and headed steeply uphill for the rather uninspiring drop to Chop Gate, where we managed to persuade the pub to open.

Matt on the muddy descent to Chop Gate

Now all we had to do was climb back up onto the moor and find the Lion Inn (http://www.pubnetuk.supanet.com/lioninn/index.htm), which allows camping for coast to coasters only. This turned out to be quite a big ask. It was really hot by this stage and we were relieved that part of the climb was through East Bank Plantation and therefore in the shade.

Hedd fords Bilsdale Beck before the climb across Urra Moor to Round Hill

Hedd half-way up feeling the heat!

Following a short push/carry between the top of the plantation and the moorland plateau, we made it. Now we just had to cover a few easy miles on a disused railway line, and we'd be at the pub!

The last few easy miles of the day on disused railway

Before too long, the Lion Inn came into view - a very welcome sight. It was about 6pm so we had time for a celebratory beer in the garden before pitching the tent in an adjacent field.

Job done - time for a beer!

We were all in celebratory mood, just one day (the easiest) left. We decided that we deserved a substantial meal in the resturant and a few too many beers.

A celebratory meal and a few too many - the Lion Inn

Day 5: Wednesday 23 July - Lion Inn, Blakey Howe to Robin Hood's Bay

Oh dear, why did we have all that beer? We still had 27 miles to cover, some of which was over difficult terrain, and for the first time we had a deadline (we had to be in Robin Hood's Bay by 3pm to meet the Packhorse minibus!).

We started on road, with our mate Ben (aka Greengrass), who had joined us on his road bike to cover some parts of our final day.

Off we go! On road at the start of the last day
Ben catching up on his road bike

After the road section we followed a great bridleway contouring around Great Fryup Dale and headed downhill to Glaisdale.

Ed on the Great Fryup Dale bridleway

The team head downhill towards Glaisdale

From Glaisdale we followed the road before a tough offroad climb, which at least had a fun ford at the bottom! This was unfortunately only rewarded with an onroad descent to Egton Bridge and Grosmount.

Ad flying through the Glaisdale Beck ford

Grosmount seemed like the town that time forgot, with steam engines and an ol' skool co-op which at least allowed us to stock up on energy drinks!

Steam engines in the centre of Grosmount

The road climb out of Grosmount was absolutely brutal. The only crumb of comfort on the way up was our first view of the sea. The climb was relentless though and we really needed a break when we reached the A169 at the top. We followed the A169 for a while before heading off on a bridleway towards Fylingdales Moor. We were all disappointed that the giant golf balls have been replaced with a strange pyramid shape.

Ed and Stu on Fylingdales Moor

Matt, Ad and Nev on Fylingdales Moor

After initially making good progress on clear tracks, things got a bit trickier as we turned North. Things started well with a fun descent, but as the trail flattened it became less obvious.

Ed one of Fylingdales Moor's trickier sections

We ploughed on and eventually found some sweet moorland singletrack which dropped us down to the A171 - it was 2pm and we were very close now!

Nev enjoying some moorland singletrack

The final road section passed quickly, especially the steep drop into Robin Hood's Bay! We headed straight for the beach for the obligatory photos.

Made it! On the beach in Robin Hood's Bay

We met up with Ben, who'd arrived an hour or so earlier after a cut-down road ride. By the time we pushed back up to the meeting point, our trusty Packhorse minibus was waiting for us. Although it was 3pm, our driver was happy for us to go and celebrate with a beer prior to the bus ride back to Kirkby Stephen, our cars and normal life. It had been a proper adventure!

A triumphant beer overlooking Robin Hood's Bay